The tattooed Maori guide’s ancestors defied the might of the British Empire. What sort of reception would Dan Snow get?
We stood in grass up to our knees amid dandelions that covered the hilltop. As on so many other battlefields, Nature has restored a simple beauty to terrain gouged by man’s violence. But even the wildflowers cannot disguise the trenches, bunkers and other scars in the earth.
I’m familiar with them, the telltale signs of industrial warfare. I could be standing in northern France, Ukraine or even Vietnam.
But looking across at my guide, Hone Mihaka,...